There are many parrot owners and Vets alike who question the health content of seeds and prefer pellets as the recent alternative. I on many occasions have disagreed with those owners and Vets as no manufactured pellet in any way should ever replace seeds but only be added as a dietary supplement and should not exceed thirty percent of a birds diet.Why? Well first there is no such thing as a pellet tree, therefore as pellets, its contents are pressed processed, cooked, preservatives and additives added for shelf-life, and dyes are included for the enticement of him or her. Pellet companies are industries with money on their minds like everyone else and want to sell their products well. However pellets although look satisfying enough to provide a staple diet, have in fact caused deficiency problems in many species. As their ingredients are almost gauranteed to enhance a birds life, they actually lose over 60 percent of their vitamins and nutrients during their manufacturing processes. I will agree that the larger the food variety the better. I would use only one type of organic pellet for my bird. And agree to one other world wide seed mix developed by Vets in Australia . Although you and many others may believe that veteranarians hold the key to avian nutrition, the truth is that they still have the slightest clue and can only give whats best on a very low scale. The real key to nutrition involves us going into their wild worlds and not just having them come into ours. What i mean is watching their wild counterparts enjoying their natural varieties,Question why is mineral rich clay is a an adopted food source on Manu riverbanks, I have done so as I've traveled to parts of Brazil, Peru, Costa Rica and witnessed Amazons eating insects, or Macaws devouring palm nuts loaded with Vitamin K which is also not available in pellets or pet foods, or even caiques and conures feeding on buds,flowers,bark and pollen of certain trees and finally, eating tons of different types of tree seeds. These foods are not available in our pets world. Unfortunately our avian society is ignorant as we feel we know it all and must teach everyone else, but please remember, because they eat what we give them doesn't mean that its good for them.As a Birdwatcher I have been to many parts of the world and viewed parrot species foraging as a nerdy hobby of mine. This helped me include over 75 types of seeds in my Illiger Macaws diets each having different vitamins and nutrients. They were either purchased at import food stores or harvested / pesticide free and washed. The only seeds I would not give my Illiger Macaws are sunflower seeds as they not only aren't native to their ranges but are very oily base and can lead to problems over time, such as irritant skin plucking, fatty liver disease, etc.
I love this! I recently became a step-parent to Stanley, an illigers Macaw whom his previous owner thought was a Hahns. The fact that they didn't even bother to find out what he is doesn't give me confidence in his previous nutrition! I have gradually changed his diet from EXCLUSIVELY sunflower seeds and he will now eat peas, sweet potato, apple, tomato, hazlenuts and TOP pellets (which are, at least, organic). I am currently adding a few oats to his 'chop' in the hope that he will at least give a new smell/taste a go.
ReplyDeleteHe is quite aggressive and will sit on my shoulder for a few minutes then, without warning, will attack me. I don't really trust him at the moment, but his attitude is improving day by day as his diet improves. I would appreciate any sources of nutritional products I could tempt him with - although I would rather go to The Jungle, it's not an option!
I'll keep an eye on this blog and look forward to your next post!
@The Dalai Farmer: Thank you for reading this post. I am glad that you have changed Stanley's diet as well. On aggression, I had one that was similar to yours he loved shoulders and would give his little complaining growl-shreek it was kind of like saying give me my space if i came close . I call it complaining because they make the same irritated screams with each other as well for any reason or perhaps five times a day when two or more both wanting the same cherry for instance. Another example is if my hand is placed over his feet while on a bed for instance. . The shreek is never repeated and should never persist over three seconds though and in my case no real bites are ever delivered. If I was bit I would bring them back for 3 minutes to their cages and try again even if a bite didn't hurt . this method effectively teaches what is acceptable. However one can benefit greatly with close observation and their indications as these are a great species to read good body language which makes them an easier parrot to build bonds with. My Illiger stopped being this way as I let him take the initiative to approach me but the minute his famous Illiger complaint growl started I would say no! It worked 99% of the time. Although their beaks are large and powerful, I consider them to be an almost an all bark and no bite species. When I have been bitten by other owner's Illigers, the damage always consisted of a mini drop of blood over my fingernail. No pain nothing at all compared to other types of parrots. They also need to be exposed to every possible non toxic or hazardous thing around. Besides encouraging mental stimulation, this prevents easily being frieghtened from new objects if they aren't sure whats besides them, they freighten very easily. Even a book for instance can be percieved as a threat. This is not a individual disorder either as this is in their instinctive DNA Its their nature to be wary of every possible threats as they naturally have numerous predators in the wild. Therefore, to prevent this they need to familiarize with as many safe items as possible .Good Luck!
ReplyDeleteI have since found out that Stanley was mistreated before I got him and so, of course, is not very trusting. Now that I know, I can make more allowances for his fear/aggression knowing that he's just protecting himself.
ReplyDeleteI have (finally!) found a toy that he likes - little cubes of wood with holes drilled almost through to the bottom, making a kind of cup. When it's filled with nuts and seeds he loves to try to get them out. He screeches at that too, when he gets frustrated with it!
We have also found that if the dogs walk past his cage he 'attacks' which I am presuming is because he's scared.
Hello Again,
ReplyDeleteYes with the dogs It is fear they are afraid of everything new sometimes after running away for a while they turn this into a hate and attack or at least try to. Mine is terrified of brooms and cannot be in the same room with one it seriously terrifies him. This might have something to do previous ownership. But they are skiddish by nature. It took him two weeks to get the courage to bite a sock i left on his cage. When he did he really tore it up. I'm not an animal behavioralist but it seemed like anger he had with this sock in particular as the other socks were hardly chewed or attacked. and tame faster as well as reduce the chance of plucking. Give him privacy. Hang a big toy inside the cage one with bells and knotted cloth in front of the inside perch toward the far end and put the cage in the corner of the room as well. he will choose this spot to sleep and hide. He will come out on his own and feel more comfortable with the bond. You would definately need this if you have dogs that come to the cage.You can even turn on your night lights and not wake him this way.Better rest = less stress.If this is too much and you want to save money. Use cardboard folded and connect it inside the back of the cage in an L shape. tear an "n" shaped door hole around the wooden perch. for entry.Good luck!
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI am getting my first Illigers Macaw and I would like to know what kind of vitamins
( if any ) should be added to food/water.
Thanks ,
Laura
Thanks Laura, I only use whole food supplements either purchased or harvested.Some people use "gse" agave sweetener, palm oils. I don't. There are limits to dosages and problems are related to their usage. I find them unnecessary. I would advise however feeding your Illiger Macaws self picked and washed palm nuts. (Kentia,Canary Island Date, triangle, Alexander,bismark, Guadalupe and many others. No Sago though. It is a great supplemant (vitamin K) and natural to them as well. They do need nuts in their diets extra fat However, if you plan on clipping his wings and limiting his movement such as keeping his door locked, feed him only a few and watch ihis weight. where as a fully flighted bird should be offered more and is usually OK. Good luck
ReplyDeleteWe are getting our first Illiger macaw soon ( he was just born on the 4th) and want to know what type of pellets are you recommending at add to their diet as a part of it?
ReplyDeleteAlso, not sure where you're buying all of your nuts/seeds etc... but is there an online source that you can recommend? Right now we're getting most of them from Whole Foods....but not sure where to find safflower seeds. We also have a rehomed Congo African Grey and a Hahns Macaw who eat a variety of things but are stubborn about seeds/nuts so we sneak them into bird bread or pasta mixes. We hope that the new baby gets off to the right start!
I have been watching your videos. I am getting a hahns macaw soon and whats your input. Like my green cheek conure he will eat pellets (not the fruit flavored kind) and fruits and veggies. I got some unsalted unroasted almonds and cashews for him to eat too. My green cheek conure likes chop mixes http://www.birdtricks.com/blog/chop-mix-for-your-birds/
ReplyDeleteShe also will eat some of a boiled egg and likes to eat goldenfeast Moroccan cafe. How different should my macaws diet be from my green cheek conure? The breeder also wants me to put some regular cherries (not the flavored kind) in moderation in his diet.